Incidentally, where did the ghastly phrase ‘share with you’ come from? You have to be physically present to share a bottle with me and, much though I would enjoy all readers of this column to come round to my place clutching a bottle each, this might result in no column next month! So I will not ‘share’ the wines with you; I will suggest what you might like to share with others (or keep all to yourself, as I propose to do). We are very lucky in Gibraltar in having such a wide choice of wines from so many merchants – and at reasonable prices. Yes, Spanish wines may be cheaper in Spain, but then add the cost of petrol and the bother of crossing the border to get them. On top of that, there is, in my experience, rarely any in-house expertise to advise you on what to buy in a wine-shop (actually, not many of those in Spain either) — they are too keen on selling. Our Gibraltar merchants are, of course, equally keen on making a sale, but they can (mostly) at least point you in the right direction and have some knowledge of what they are selling. This month, I have gone for some richer tastes, which will suit October perfectly. As I’m sure I’ve said before, it is important to go for wines which suit the weather. A Barbadillo white (from Cadiz) tastes absolutely marvellous at a Chirringuito on the beach on a hot summer’s day; try the same while the rain is lashing down and you are wondering whether you should have invested in a heater in your home — you will wonder what on earth made you buy it. So a couple of whites and a couple of reds, which are perfect for the cooler months ahead. Firstly two wines from the well renowned Bodegas Riojanas; Vina Albina 2004, Rioja Blanco (£4.75, Stagnetto’s, 41 Main St, tel 78666). The grapes for this (mainly Viura with a little Malvasia) are harvested as late in the year as possible to obtain the maximum natural sugar content and the resulting juice is fermented in new oak and then matured for several months in barriques. It will go beautifully with a rough pate as a starter or with an apple pie at the end of the meal. I don’t normally go for sweetish whites but this has enough kick to make it ideal for when the rain is lashing down and you have just thrown out the Barbadillo. Serve it coolish, but not too cold. You will gain your just reward. After your pate (or before your apple pie) you will have something meaty — assuming you are not a vegetarian. Vina Albina Rioja Reserva 1999 (£10.65,Stagnetto’sas before). Wow. This is a rich — and so it should be at the price — wellbalanced traditional style Rioja but at the very top end of the range. Wine writers go on about blackberries, citrus fruits, herbs and all sorts of other things that they taste in wine. All I want to taste is fer- “Life is but. Life is butter. Life is but a melon. Life is but a melancholy flow” I first saw this as a graffito some years ago and thought I would share it with you. However, some terrific wines, which I am also sharing with you, make a far from melancholy flow and will cheer up all but the grumpiest. An End to the Melancholy Flow mented grape juice and this has fermented grape juice in spades (or even no trumps). It is traditionally made using a blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano and well aged (24 –30 months in American oak) before release. A real treat, which will also keep, and improve, for a few years if you can manage to resist its velvety charms. Even the poor vegetarians will enjoy it with their nutty cutlet or whatever it is that they regard as a substitute for proper food. The rest of us will love it with any roast or grill. The aftertaste is sublime, and worth splashing out on as you gaze at the rain trying to splash you. I first tasted the Sileni Estates Chardonnay 1999 from New Zealand (see below for special offer price from Anglo Hispano) about five years ago and promptly bought a case (and I have the T-shirt to prove it). This is as good as the best Chablis — steely but not sharp, lemony but with a counterbalance of melon… and splendid fermented grape juice! It comes as part of an offer with the same estate’s red, a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 blend (£17.85 for one of each of the white and the red). The red is rounded, full, showing nicely matured fruit and oak flavours and will stand comparison with any (probably more expensively priced) Bordeaux. Both will be ideal for one of those Autumn days when the rain is not lashing down, there is a sprinkling of sunshine, and you feel like treating yourself to a salad and a cutlet (preferably of lamb and not nut). I need to stop recommending wines that I like. They keep selling out, meaning I can’t get any. by Jane Edwards

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