I have not included any rose wines this time because they are neither fish nor fowl and not worthy of serious consideration. I am second to none in enjoying a glass of chilled rose under a leafy canopy while gazing longingly into the eyes of……….. Enough of that! This is a column on wine, not seduction techniques! If enough people ask, I am prepared to recommend the roses that work for me (but never, ever, Mateus rose) but you’ll have to wait until next summer. I have looked mainly at the good value end of the market for this month. We are all overspent after the summer holidays and need to retrench a bit. But that does not stop us enjoying a decent glass and so, here are what I have found and enjoyed. First, a delicious Alsace Pinot Blanc (Preiss-Zimmer, 12.5 % ABV, £3.63, Morrison’s tel: 41114 ). Alsace wines have never even established the foothold they ought to have done in the UK , never mind in Gibraltar, probably because the French, knowing their own, gobble it all up before it gets here. This is a dry, fresh and delicate white, full of fruit, and perfect for the long late summer evenings while gazing into the eyes of … Oops, I’m at it again! Strongly recommended, whether as an aperitif or an accompaniment to any fish or shellfish, pasta, or chicken dishes — and at a very reasonable price for the quality. Next is an Australian, Hardy’s Voyage 2004 an unoaked blend of three grape varieties – of which Chenin blanc predominates (12.5% ABV £3.93, Morrison’s, as before). Australians have been dominating the Anglo-Saxon market for some time with their Chardonnays and Jacob’s Creekses all of which are perfectly OK but not actually very good. (Who would drink an oaked Chardonnay from Australia in preference to a decent Chablis?) At last, however, the Australians have seen the error of their ways and come out with this - happily unoaked – fresh, dry white. I could go on about citrus and herb aromas and so on — I will simply say that it slips down a treat. As with the Alsace, drink at any time during a long hot evening... Ok, I’ll stop now. At the same price as the Hardy’s comes Stowell’s Sauvignon Blanc from the Curico Valley, Chile (13.5% ABV, £3.93, Morrison’s, as before). Once again, fruity, dry, and all that. It’s a matter of personal taste. If you prefer a Sauvignon, go for this. If you prefer a Chenin blanc (with others), go for the Hardy’s. If you want to spend 30p less, go for the Alsace. I recommend getting one of all three (and definitely while the evenings are still long and hot) and see which you like best – none will disappoint and the investment is not major. You can then spend the few remaining summer evenings with your pre- The season of mists and mellow fruitfulness is fast approaching Now the ‘mellow fruitfulness’ I can cope with, but I don’t want any mists delaying or diverting flights to and from the airport. But with summer passing (but not quite gone), we can still enjoy a few fruity whites during the hot weather and consider some more solid reds for the cooler times coming. ferred one (if you see what I mean). On to shorter evenings and some reds. First out of the blocks is a truly wonderful Shiraz for the price, Barossa Peter Lehmann 2002 Shiraz from Australia (14.5% ABV, £4.99 Morrison’s, as before). Nicely strong in alcohol, rich, warm, fruity – you name it, this has got it. Once again, the Australians seem to be realising the errors of their earlier ways. This is the best thing to come out of Australia since Shane Warne (who is, so a friend reliably informs me, a cricketer of some note). Drink it now or, better still, keep it for a couple of years and then drink velvet for the price of cotton. Muga 2001 Reserva Rioja, (13.5%, ABV, £6.99, also Morrison’s) is good. I was trying to stay at the cheap end, but thought this might just creep in. Mainly Tempranillo, it has a rich colour and splendid aftertaste — but it just wasn’t me. That is my fault, not the fault of the wine. It really is good, and justifies the price. Finally, the good old fallback for all occasions. Morrison’s Claret (£2.23). Who could wish for more at a price for everyday drinking? Medium-bodied (so it goes with everything), fruity etc etc, this is the standard by which all more expensive wines must be measured. Yes, the Shiraz is superb, but it is still more than twice the price, and you can get three of these for one of the Muga! I am not suggesting that this is a great vintage chateau-bottled premier cru, but it is wonderful stuff at the price. Although the French can be a difficult lot, I cannot find anything wrong with their viticulture. So it’s, Alsace and Claret for me then! by Jane Edwards

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