When Churchill & Eisenhower Walked this Way One blistering afternoon in July I took a nice cool walk in the World War II Tunnels, courtesy of Let’s Go Limited who operate the Rock’s very latest visitor attraction from a reception area by Princess Caroline’s Battery. Richard Soiza’s company has, in partnership with government, invested heavily in refurbishing sections of the tunnel network; allowing visitors to safely enjoy a part of our military heritage that was previously available to just a privileged few. Easy walking on the well-lit, gently sloping concrete paths allows visitors to concentrate on the tunnel sights (and sounds of a continuous stream of commentary) without having to worry about their footing. Comprehensive cctv coverage and a network of emergency ‘phones gives the reception area an up-to-date picture of which parties are where and exactly what’s going on. The Let’s Go professional licensed guides conduct small parties from Haye’s Level firstly to look into Fordham’s Accommodation, then via Liddell’s Union up to Clapham Junction, out onto Jock’s Balcony then via Willis’s Engine Room to Princess Caroline’s for a comfort break at the Reception Cafeteria. Then, having experienced the WW2 tunnels, they may take a guided excursion to the 18th century Upper and Lower Union Galleries, excavated by white muscle and black powder shortly after the Great Seige. Throughout my visit I was constantly surprised by the amount of information and the attention to detail provided by our Let’s Go guide. At Haye’s Level a stunning collection of wartime pictures, displayed by agreement with the Imperial War Museum, effectively demonstrated both tunnel construction and the wartime activity within them; although it reminded some of us that much of our heritage data is recorded in archives abroad. Our guide explained many of the mysteries of tunnel building and the innovations introduced to make living inside the Rock a practical proposition and as comfortable as wartime conditions would allow. We also saw a display of original equipment used by the Royal Engineers to cut these very tunnels in the first place. These pneumatic drills, drill stand and rock bits are on loan from Flat Bastion Magazine, a good example of co-operation in sharing resources for the benefit of our visitors. Our guide, in a potted history of military tunnelling on the Rock, explained the design criteria, the sequence of operations and the resulting operational network in a concise, matter of fact way. His explanation of mining terms; of adits, galleries and winzes, was understandable by even the meanest intelligence (mine) and was enlivened by anecdotes not only of the miners but the military defenders who subsequently occupied the sites. But I won’t be giving those away; you will have to go and hear them for yourselves. The view from Jock’s Balcony, unequalled in Gibraltar or anywhere else, is accentuated by the transition from tunnel to rock ledge, low light contrast to high, from inside the Rock to soaring above the isthmus. Whilst our guide described the advancing saps from the fortress at Santa Barbara and the Rock gunners’ response, I watched kites wheeling below. That view, that feeling, is worth the entrance fee alone. Back at the Reception Cafeteria, an imaginatively edited collection of Imperial War Museum photographs provides a visual description the evacuation. Many of the pictures appeared new (to me anyway) and might well evoke an emotional response from people who lived through those times, or indeed who recognise family members. With some foresight, Let’s Go have arranged these pics in the Cafeteria so that we can all go to see them for free and, just maybe, be tempted by the tour…. well, I was. by Paul Hodkinson

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